7.23.2010

Welcome to The House of KAS

The torrid temperature at the National Habor hinted what was to unfold on the runway that evening. On Friday, July 16, the store opening of the first African American business-owned at the Harbor, House of KAS, opened its doors to the world. The celebration manifested in an all white runway conjured up on the plaza of one of the most affluent spots in the area. The Occoquan Bay served as the backdrop to a serene and sensuous elongated catwalk where the 2010 KAS designs would be shown. The cosmopolitan growing city was the chosen place for Kenny Flanagan, the man behind KAS Collection, to open its very first boutique, a privilege only a few can come realize. 

As I arrive to the location, the open businesses, including several restaurants, beauty shops, and accessories and clothing stores looked updated since the last time I was there. The crowd strolling around the sidewalk, the bonafide vibe and sense of community felt familiar. I been at the Harbor once before, but now coming back about a year later I felt refreshed. My feeling of reinvigoration did not help my sense of direction. I had failed to realize the runway show was not going to be held on the address provided which was the store's location, but on the plaza at the Harbor. After a few minutes of hunting, I arrived. I was delighted to see the level of work of the makeshift catwalk and panel set behind it as to create a touch of drama. I was surprised to witness that all almost every seat was taken, I did not recognize a single face on the front-row. As I started to instigate, the invited guests and VIP's were mingling at a two-story restaurant located adjacent to the runway setup. I arrived late to the reception and trying to get to the second floor of the restaurant was chaotic if not confusing, so I stayed at level ground. All of the sudden, I see Maggy Francois, the producer of the show, we exchanged words, but then a slightly fiasco ensued. 

It was hot and a bit humid and folks were already seated ready for the show to start, little did they know, they were about to get kick out of their seats. The folks that were seated were not invited, much less VIPs so they were instructed to vacate their seats. The picture was not pretty to say the least. I noticed some folks fuming, seemingly ready to curse somebody out. I understood their anger. There was not a single person present to instruct the crowd on the seating situation nor there were "reserved" sings placed on any of the seats. However, this was not a local hood fashion show. The fact that there were no instructions given, does not give folks the right to act nasty and vulgar to the people working for the show. Though their behavior read as disrespectful, most of them stayed to watch the show bitterly, but at least they got their treats. In hindsight, I think I slightly felt like bitch at some point, like it was a bad thing, but I paid no attention, fashion is a bitch, after all. 

I was seated in between MSGFT's Ryan Charchian (Military's Style Guide For Teens) in dark Chanel sunglasses (I also had the chance to meet the lovely Elizabeth Hogue, MSGFT's market fashion editor), to my left was GWFCC (Great Washington Fashion Chamber of Commerce) Christine Brooks-Cropper wearing a fitted jean which nicely hugged her curves, across from me, on the other side of the runway, was vanguardist designer EmoreJ Couture. I guess you could say I was seating amongst the right people. The show, like any other fashion show, started late as ever, so I chit-chatted with Ryan most of the time, he was briefly telling me about his organization, his appreciation of my blog and how much the models loved him. As I look at the front row, I noticed Ryan, Elizabeth and myself were the youngest out of all the attendees. I won't be surprised if folks thought we were wrongly seated from the lack of information they know about us, but I personally felt I earned my spot. 

The music slowly started to rise on the background, Kenny's voice crept in narrating on his humble beginnings and how the haters won't stop him. Two rows of models clad in white (short and tight) ensembles lined up at the end of each side of the runway. I truly did not know what to expect, Were they going to give us a lap-dance? or, Where they going to hand out Kenny's business cards? My premonitions were be to proven wrong. They got up all along the runway and performed their posed-and-shake routine. It was a lovely intro. However, the choreography did not tell me anything about Kenny as a designer. But in someway, it heralded the vibe of his presentation. 


The show opened up with a chocolate brown silk top with a plunging neckline, dark-washed jeans with gold pipping, and faux-croc printed bag. Right from the first look, the mood of the collection was established -- short and feminine. The seductive appeal from the clothes and the vixen touch of the hair, make-up and accessories just ratchet up the temperature on the runway. The girls seemed ready to hit the town for a wild sex-charged party night, or at least that's the impression the clothes elicited. The most transitional looks were composed of wrapped silk tops with billowy cuffed sleeves with tiny buttons detailing. The one that felt most innovative was the one in lilac with the armpits cut out, it looked like a nod to modernity and practicality. I don't see a single person complaining about a bit of ventilation. 

The illusion created by the wrapped waists and slightly flowy sleeves was not only attractive but also contributive towards achieving a slimmer silhouette, which at the end of the day is what every women wants. Also, the idea of de-emphazining a much more lusciously-targeted area on the body besides breasts and legs was an alluring concept. Covering the arms and exposing the legs looks more appropriate than baring it all out there and leaving nothing to the imagination. 


The demure color palette just felt right for the moment, it composed shades that would work for a majority of consumers. It included: midnight blue, black, deep purple, chocolate brown, rubi, silver and touches of gold.

Two other standout looks was this strapless cocktail dress in rubi with a bow at the side-front and this long-sleeve dress with a draped neckline in shimmering red silk. Both looks had enough sex-appeal to turn heads everywhere, and both models turned out looking vivacious instead of slutty. I was much less convinced of a gentrified cerulean silk blouson worn with a high waisted skirt. It just completely clashed with the youthfulness of the whole collection. I wish I hadn't see it. I thought the efforts to create a draped night gown were commendable, after all Kenny's strength centers there. But I was slightly disappointed with one of the gowns that just felt underwhelming. The colour, bright orange, looked gorgeous, but the fit was downright blah. The tulle straps holding the dress and the sash across the waist just looked like an afterthought, the shape of the girl suddenly disappeared and she ended up looking like a premature version of her mother who happen to have bigger body features. The gown certainly look mediocre in comparison to the rest of his fabulous collection. 


Regardless of the minimal mishap, the evening wear shined on its own. The most unconventional, still wearable looks was this long-sleeve with an open neck in what seems to be in fleece or velour and to bring a more appealing touch the hem was sequenced. It was a dress that at first, might not look tempting but after considering the choice of the unconventional fabrics to create an evening look, suddenly it becomes an "it" dress . There was also this cocktail dress in luscious black silk with controlled frills cascading down the neckline, it certainly looked stunning on the model and perhaps the most chic looking dress on the collection. His last look, and what got the crowd cheering the loudest was this strapless gown with slashes of silk silver, black and sequence beautifully entwined altogether. The intricate workmanship and coquettish vibe of the wear certainly made a lasting impression on the attendees, it felt like the right note to end an impressive show. 

Talking about a lasting impression, the most editorial look (see below) was on Bianca Chardei which was a silk strapless printed dress with a red overlay adoring the neck and exposing the back. The glamour of the dress as it swayed down the runway was palpable. The intricate melange of the African-inspired prints was so visually appealing and the rather seductive move on the girl made for a stunning look. And Rihanna, if you're reading this, get in contact with Kenny asap. 

Photo by Ryan Charchian
RIHANNA, EAT YOUR HEART OUT!

Kenny posses other conceits, his menswear was also a hit on the runway. The suits he presented were casually worn over v-neck tees, open-collar and matchy combinations of ties and handkerchiefs. What look more interested than the suits as a whole was his fabrication, they looked lush and it seemed as if he spent a considerable amount of research on them. There was a simple plaid brown and red lines, camel, and silk ivory. The silhouette was roomy and boxy, more tailored around the shoulders, pants were loosen but did not look saggy. As the model walked down the runway, I kept pondering on who his male customers are. It may not be a Frenchy who prefers Dior Homme (circa Hedi Slimane era), but an American with a much sturdy physique and is perhaps an assailant of "skinny" jeans. Think more Chad Ochocinco than Elijah Wood.


TROUBLE!
When this man came out, women (and some men) went bonkus, I think I overheard someone said "He is going to bring the cougar out of me". And who is to blame, everybody loves chocolate. 

After the show, guests were directed to the boutique located on Fleet Street. Once I arrived there I stepped in and I sort of felt I was stepping into the world of Kenny, a piece of his soul bared on the walls. I instantly noticed this gorgeous lace bustier gown perched on the window, later I told Kenny that gown should have been on the runway. There were some samples on rack, one of them was a fur jacket, on a coffee table were his lookbooks and right by the window a copy of Krave magazine which I picked up the minute I saw flesh. I didn't not get to see the back but I was already enthralled with the front of the small boutique. Moments later, Kenny arrived and he was swarmed with folks wanted to kiss him and congratulate him, and he graciously welcome all the blessings. Everybody wanted to get a piece of him, and most of them who approached them did. Once I got my chance to get a few words from him, Kenny looked exhausted, but seemed relieved that it was done.

After the show, Kenny was asked who was the inspiration behind his collection, he answered his mother, "she's everything to me", he then introduced his lovely daughter and stated some beautiful words standing next to her, it was a beautiful image of a loving father and daughter. I wasn't completely satisfied with his answer for the source of inspiration, I wanted to know more. Once at the store, I asked him, what specifically about his mother was that inspired him? His eyes lit up, "her attention to details", he added, "she had a great sense of style and she focused on the silhouette." I felt his passion, his sincerity and humility (he gave a shout-out to his seamstress who was seating frontrow). In a way, I witnessed a side of Kenny that I have not seen before, the man who actually makes things happen and puts the time and effort to his craft. I saw the man who backs up what he states and does it triumphantly. It was an inspiring moment witnessing a successful black man in fashion going after his dream and remaining true to himself along the way. 

Photos by Phil Kogan. 

7.10.2010

The Milkshake Girl Gives Me Fireworks

I hope you all had a great-buzzing 4th of july weekend, I had planned to go to NYC with the boyfriend but it never really worked out so we were stucked out here in DC with white republicans at the memorial watching fireworks in true hippie form. I wasn't blogging on that day since my Mac was here at home and I was somewhere else getting ready, but a music tone kept rippling in my head. I kept thinking about Kelis' new joint coincidently titled "4th of July (Fireworks)" hence my post tittle, and as I kept watching the fireworks illuminating the sky serving as backdrop to the White House, I imagined the song playing on the big loudspeakers. It was a special moment. I never witness such a comely presentation of mundane fireworks in such iconic setting. It was something I wanted to attend for the longest time but I never had a chance. I'm glad I was there with a person I love so much. 

The album called "Flesh Tone" released on July 6th of this year pushed Kelis forward, in all sense of the word. The sound now is more festive-trance-pop than club-down-the-block. My picks are "22nd Century", "Acapella" and "4th of July". Though I miss the old Kelis, sex-charged-lyrics with a vixen vibe, I'm starting to embrace her new persona. I sense she is one of those women that is challenging to fathom but once you look deeper she has a story to tell. In other words, she's more than meets the eyes. I already checked the whole album out and I'm convinced, but I'm still on the limbo on her sartorial choices, which leads me to talk about her sometimes questionable sense of style. 


I think folks often mistakenly associate the word "futuristic" with "clownish", there is a thin line between "fashion-forward" and "trying-too-hard" and most people on entertainment don't posses the looks to frolic with Lady Gaga games. Much less, delve into her uncanny feyness. Frankly honest, I'm trying to understand the direction of where this women is going, sartorially speaking. Perhaps I'm getting lost in translation, but the some of the things she has been publicly seen wearing look dubious and questionable tasteful. I don't mind the armadillos Mcqueen shoes form the Spring/Summer 2010 she has been wearing, but all these unnecessary accessorizing is bewildering. I think her stylist is sabotaging her or she's saying "yes" to things she should be saying "NO". Don't get me wrong, I love the drama, but drama well executed.

Regardless, I still find myself musically attracted to Kelis, she has this off thing that I find interesting. It's a bit difficult to word it, but I hope you know what I'm talking about. I decided to take some screen-shots of the video and further illustrate my point. I also intended for the shots to looks a movie so that's why you see them in that order. 


The dangling shiny pearls worn as earrings, the peter pan collar shaped necklace and the head piece which seems to be made out of pearls as well just screams "too much". And noticed that I'm not even mentioning the overdone eye-lashes and nose-ring which I find outdated. Nonetheless, I like the simple make-up. 


The golden lame, asymetrical-batman-wing-high-slit gown does say great things about her body, but the decoration around the hems just reads cheap. Also, the dress sort of reminds me of something you'll see women wearing at an Arabian Nights party. I love the color of the earrings, I think it sets well with the whole color theme of the shot and the setting. I guess she loves long, dangly earrings. 



Just the elaboration of the feathered native indian head piece gets points from me. I don't know where the idea to add this item into the scene and story of the whole music video came from, but it adds an interesting factor to the whole thing. 

The post was supposed to be published later since it was not done, but I mistakenly clicked on the publish button, ooops...I will update soon.

7.03.2010

In The Meanwhile...

(Editor's note: I know I have not been blogging as often as I should and I'm so behind in fashion years it's not even funny. But I have a good enough excuse, I been dealing with "life things" that need my priority attention. I'm working on different projects to get my career going and hopefully pump up the content of the blog. I know you'll understand since you love me so much...just like I do, too).

I don't read Rolling Stone, since they cover so much music and politics that disinterest me, but they got my attention with their new issue. The name says it all --GAGA-- is in the cover semi-naked, wearing a leather-harness bra and bottom, armed with two gun machines ready to kill. The weapons covering much of the bra gives the illusions that they're protruding from the bra, but for some reason it reminds me of Madonna's Gaultier bra from back in the day. The cover and the story inside the issue was photographed by my fav naughtiest photog Terry Richardson and styled by none other than the talented Nicola Formichetti (on his blog, he species that the bra Gaga is wearing was custom made by David Samuel Menkes and the shoes are not Mcqueen, they're by Norikata Tatehana, now ROGER THAT!)


"WHEN I WAKE UP IN THE MORNING I FEEL JUST LIKE ANY OTHER INSECURE 24-YEAR OLD GIRL, THEN I SAY, 'BITCH YOU ARE LADY GAGA, YOU GET UP AND WALK THE WALK TODAY'."
(Yes, I had to put this quote up in CAPITALS, because it's that good, and if you're offended, too bad, nobody likes a victim)
(And also I had to post the same picture, so you can admire the shoe-art, now gag)

In the issue, Gaga "tells all", and that means she opens up about the name change from "Germanotta" to "Gaga" (pause)...Have you ever heard of an uglier name? No offense, but that's seriously one of the most repugnant names I ever heard, but then again the transition to "GAGA" is perhaps one the best decisions she has ever made, musically. She also goes to root her success on the break-up from her East Village boyfriend five years ago (Awww!). And she doesn't fail to mention that she's not sexually active, "sex is certainly not, like, a priority at the moment" which vaguely brings me back to what some rapper said a while back, clamming he would "do" her, so I guess this goes to him and the rest of his goons. Furthermore, she even goes political, "Why are we still talking about 'Don't ask, don't tell'? -- "It's like what fucking year is it? It makes me crazy!" This is one of the reasons I like this lady. Unlike most of her counterparts, she says what she thinks, and it's not scared of what people are going to say and she loves the gays (groundbreaking!). Lastly, she gives a glimpse of her next album, in a a true cookery/bakery form (for the smart ones), "I have been for three years baking cakes -- and now I'm going to bake a cake that has a bitter jelly. The message of the new music is now more bitter than it was before. Because the sweeter the cake, the more bitter the jelly can be." --- I love a sweet cake with a bitter jelly in it. 


You must be living under a rock, or must have a turban pinsack over your head (as Anna once said) to not know what's going on in South Africa right now. The biggest sporting event (yes, it is) THE World Cup is unfolding and that means my television is on ESPN almost all day, simultaneously flipping back and forth to catch up on Wimbledon. I been a Brasil fan since forever, but I'm also rooting for Portugal and Italy (though they already lost). I'm rooting for Portugal for the simple reason that Cristiano Ronaldo is playing on that team -- which is the whole point of the editorial above. The spread it's called "Footballers' wives" shot by Sebastian Faena and styled by de Dudzeele. The photographs screamed tabloid tackiness as well, the clothes look cheap, trite and the attempt to make the women look sexy crosses boundaries of sluttishness. I was expecting more from V and I'm just appalled that this spread was even given thought to be done and printed in the pages of the magazine. What happened to the taste level? The only thing that I find worthy here is the stylist's attempt to transform male model Simon Nessman into a version of Cristiano Ronaldo. The wet, gelled, wavy dark hair; putty lips and "pretty boy" earrings. Check out the rest of the spread here, NSFW. 

I wanted to post these pictures up not to demonize them, but just to serve as a vague intro to a future World Cup post I'm working on. You thought that was it? Not even. 

The spread was shot by Terri Tsiolis and styled by Simons Robins and features chocolate models: Reina Montero, Jeneil Williams, Sedene Blake, Shena Moulton and Aminata Niaria. 

The July issue of Vogue Russia has an editorial with black models, enough said. 

The 2011 Resort collections are set and done as well as the S/S 2011 Men's season. Not to mention Couture is right around the corner. And I haven't said a word, but if we're friends on Facebook, then you might have read my thoughts on a few of the collections. A sentence about a collection is not a valid "say" for the most influential designers in the business, an 8-year old can do that. I'm not a Suzy Menkes, but I tend to wrap my mind and fathom the idea/content/inspiration behind each collection and then make an "analysis" of it. It's just within me to look at fashion in a non-label-whorish way and try to dig deeper than the surface. I will soon post my thoughts on the best collections for Resort and the men's season as well. I know this post looks random as hell, which is what I wanted to look like anyways. And yeah, one more thing...

MEOWWW!!!!!
Givenchy Spring/Summer 2011

6.18.2010

"Were You Runway Ready?"


Last Saturday, June 12, I had the opportunity to witness the upcoming fledgling talent from the young designers of Project Stitch Studios. The show dubbed "Runway Ready" was the annual fashion show meant to showcase and celebrate the student's elaborated collections in a true runway form. The show took place at West Potomac Academy's Spring Bank Theater located in Alexandria, Virginia. I walked in about 20 minutes before the show indicated time of commencement (it started about 15 minutes late) and I spotted Project Stitch's studio director and former teacher/mentor of mine Maggy Francois (a.k.a Ms. Fancy-Faboulous-in-chief) wearing a chic black jumper that looked like it was meant to be designed for her, holding a clipboard in hands just like a true Boss Lady. Potomac's main hallway was flooded with folks trying to peep at what the exhibitor stations had to offer. These included a variety of clothing and accessories stations. One of the ones I spotted first, was my good friend Nick's. He had his line of dope Eyebone t-shirts in display awaiting to be picked up by a hip young customer that were sure present in abundance. I already own about six of his pieces, so I served as a spectator. We exchanged a few words, and then I headed to one of the back rooms to meet and interview a few of the models. I was also expecting my new friend Lynice from DMVintage but I didn't see her 'til after the show, she told me didn't do it because she was late. I was bummed because I really wanted to see her pieces. (Sidenote: My photographer couldn't make it to the show due to personal and professional reasons (yes, I was pissed),  those pictures would have been exclusively shot for "De La Style" only. However, I have the privilege of counting with equally skilled photogs such as Walter Grio and Phil Kogan who granted permission for their pictures to be posted here).

I walked in and I was greeted by a clutch of lengthy young women wearing casual clothing managing in towering heels. I immediately recognized two ladies from America's Next Top Model, Bianca Golden and Isis King. They were seating by a corner, I approached them and introduced myself and asked them for an interview, they sympathetically agreed. I started with Bianca since Isis went to grab a cupcake. Bianca, not only is not your typical model, she's is a correspondent for the Tyra Banks show, CW, and E. Also, I was pleased to learned that she's also working with young girls from her foundation. Bianca proceeded to tell me on the projects she is currently working on which included fashion and beauty editorials for magazines such as "Control, Colors SIsters" and another one she couldn't reveal because she was under contract. I was curious on how she ended up hearing about the show, "Maggy (Francois) contacted me via facebook", she said, with those vivid red lips. "I think it's amazing what they're doing, they're getting exposure and that's great for the industry" she replied in regards to the young designers of Project Stitch Studio. There is no question the hit-model-maker-factory America's Next Top Model launched a few careers for now established models,"it introduced me to the world and got me great connections."

Along came Isis wearing a short printed dress with a cut-out inset who seemed to be hyped up from the calories of the consumed cupcake. After I sincerely complimented on her dress, she incessantly responded "I made it", with panache, she started rapidly telling me about her fashion degree from the Art Institute and the distinguished honor of receiving "best evening collection". I felt she even got more excited when she was telling me about her future movie titled "Bella Maddo", directed by Janice Danielle. (I didn't really asked much about the movie since I thought we were getting off-topic, but you watch the trailer here). We moved onto a more touchy subject. When I was watching one of the cycles of America's Next Top Model, I saw Isis for the first time posing as a background model for one of the contestants. I noticed there was something "interesting" about her. Next cycle she tried out and got casted. And I wasn't surprised to learn she was transexual. I remember Isis being a dominant force on the show and the buzz she created when she was announced as one of the participants. Nonetheless, she made history for being the first transexual on the show and opened a lot of doors for more "nontraditional" models. I asked her if the fact that she was transexual had any effects in her career. "Of course" she replied with condifence, "A lot of people have an idea of what a transexual is, and I'm the opposite of that, it makes it harder, but what am I suppose to do? Not be me?". Though we only spoke briefly, I sensed the strong spirit of this young lady. She spoke with grace and sureness that felt inspiring. Besides being a runway model, Isis also serves as a motivational speaker at different college campuses across the nation. In case you haven't had the chance for Isis to enlighten you, she has a formspring account, where she has already answered over 300 questions regarding trans related topics. Drop her your questions here (http://www.formspring.me/isisking).


After my interview with Bianca and Isis I sprinted off to the Springbank Theater thinking I was already late (time is never my friend). I noticed the theater was filling in, most of the front part seats were already taken, but I headed down to the front row, where the seats displayed medium-size white signs that said "VIP". I don't see myself as a VIP, but I received my invitation on the mail and I was part of the press, so I thought the front row was a befitting place for me to sit. I was sitting by the end of the front row, on the middle section, where I had a close enough view of he runway so I could take notes, and also where I could see what everybody was wearing. 

I had a bit of a dilemma last days shy of the show. I didn't have a look in mind, but the day of the show I decided for a Calvin Klein white shirt, H&M plaid tie and black slim pants, Gianfranco Ferre black belt, Dolce and Gabbana black lace-ups, and one of my favorite pieces in my closet, a grey vest I modestly confectioned. As I look around the room, I see pretty stylish people, but then on the other side of the spectrum, I was just disgusted at what I was seeing. I remember this guy who wasn't seating not far from me, sporting a random hoodie, cargo shorts, and flip-flops, I was like "are you serious!?" in my head. I was just appalled at the lack of effort. At one point I thought "why are these people here?". Perhaps some of them are friend's of friend's with evident little interest in fashion, so attending a fashion show just to see your friend walk a runway is not a good enough reason in my book. At least, they could've pretended that they have some minimal interest in "style" since the phrase "sense of style" is not part of their vocabulary.

The show started late (just like any other fashion show. Marc Jacobs' shows used to start about 2 hours late). But when the theater lights faded creating an intimate setting, while the stage was vividly brighting, the crowd which was largely composed of young faces went bunkos. Two lines of black-clad young ladies formed at the each side of the theater. They were shouting something that I couldn't quite catch due to the obstreperous noise from the crowd. They started walking towards the stage and did their little walk and pose routine (see picture above). I thought their toungue-in-cheek t-shirts that said "I love you, but I love fashion more" certainly brought some smiles to people in the crowd. 

The introduction was made and the two hosts were presented, one of them was Military Style Guide for Teens' Ryan Charchain and self-tittled "The Diddy of the DMV" Kenny from KAS Collection. The unusual duo made the crowd get up and Kenny even attempted to make us dance. I couldn't believe it. He claimed that show was not a velory and that "we're here to have fun". I was with Kenny on this one, but I wished I was at a club to duly let loose. They did lifted the mood of the show, impetuously making comments about the collections presented and giving out free gifts to a few people in the crowd with the best runway walk. 

The first designer we saw was the lovely Kim Truong, who was wearing a sexy lipstick red tube dress with short sleeves. When I was first met Kim about 2 years ago, she seemed to have a shy demeanor, preferring to let her creations talk for her. I'm glad she has loosen up and seems to feel more comfortable around me (Kim, I don't bite). She said her collection was "vintage and military" inspired, and that probably came across the loudest on this rose-printed halter top dress with a small cute bow on the front. I love the fact that she sticked to a color (white/ivory) and made it a strong presence on the collection. She opened up this amazing lace bustier top draped skirt and silk satin belt, and also presented versions in strapless, babydoll and one of my favorites, a long-sleeve in white lace with puffed shoulders. I also saw two men's look, the one that seemed more military inspired was this white sweater with a a draped collar and epaulets (I want it). The last look, though it was a beautiful green strapless gown, felt out of place. It looked like an after-thought. The color was too outlandish against the serenity of the light, sensible dresses. Nonetheless, her collection has a tremendous potential to be taken to a whole new level, and her talent is nothing less than remarkable. 


Sam Mintah, the brain behind Ugglee is this young brotha with big dreams. I been familiar with his work for the last 3 years and I'm glad to see he's still on his grind on his way to the top. He presented his "Forever Ugglee" collection which "represents struggle" as he said on his intro. Sam is known for his use of knits, a fabric he feels comfortable working with. And of course, his penchant for big buttons. We saw his usual numbers such as cardis and sweater dresses, but what felt somewhat new was his use of color and attention to details. He opened up with this v-neck bi-colored sweater in black and chocolate brown (I want it) and protruding pockets that amped up the design. He sticked to darks tones with pop of colors such as lime green and deep purple. His most successful women's' piece was this soft baby pink cardi that can be worn in multiple of occasions. I love the fact he dared a new technique, there was this knit tube skirt with ruffles diagonally cascading down on the front. Unfortunately, that was the only piece with any kind of ruffles, but it's a territory he should explore more. I didn't necessarily felt his struggle in this collection, if that is indicative of the dark palette, but I felt his passion for the craft. The work he puts into his line was evident on the runway. I think everybody, including me, wanted to grab one of his pieces right off the models' back.


One of the guest models, besides Isis and Bianca, was a pin-sized model not even reaching puberty by the name Diva Davanna. I first saw her on a random video pulled from a source I can't remember now. She was amongst girls twice her age, walking in a mediocre runway, wearing a big fur coat by some little-kown designer. The scene was probably in Maryland if my memory doesn't fail me. Her walk had the grace of a gazelle and the strut of Natasha Poly. It certainly reminded me of a young version of Naomi Campbell. Not resembling the looks, of course, but there was something so captivating about a 9-year old damsel possessing similar runway-stomping abilities of top-ranked models. That was left to see live at the show. When she walked out with no previous warning, I was just taken aback at what I was seeing. She is nowhere near 5 feet tall, but had such a command and assuredness when she stepped onto that runway. I was even more struck when she walked with a dog on leash and on her way back the dog paused, while keeping her composure she looked back and the dog followed her, and made that part of her performance, as if that was planned. She managed it seamlessly with no evident errors. But then the question rises, what does that tell you about a 9 year old having the best walk out of plethora of young women way beyond her years, more developed figures, and reasoning skills? I'm sure you heard the saying, "some people are just born with it", and that's perhaps what applies here. (Sidenote: By the time the show was over, and the crowd flooded the hallways, I dashed off expecting to get a few words from Davanna, but there were no signs of the tiny superstar)


A few days before the show I stopped by the studio to get a preview of the collections. I also intended to make this an opportunity to interview the designers. When I walked in a saw the racks of clothes, perfectly positioned at the middle of the room, each with a label in front for each respective designer. I instantly noticed models getting fitted at the back of the room, and a few making last minute arrangements on their garments on the sewing machine. It was an organized chaos, that I'm familiar with. I was unfortunately walking with crutches (that's a WHOLE different story) so I sat down on a nearby chair and waited on the designers. My friend Ashley was there to record the interviews (clips of such interviews were meant to surfaced the net days shy of the show, but the results were unsatisfactory so unfortunately nothing was uploaded). 

The first two that came my way were Emily Shockey and Sonya Inderbitzin (the third designer Nuku Wollor was not present at the moment), the girls behind "Territory". I was curious on the name they've chosen, "We couldn't decide on a name, we had to pick something that summed up everything". At first glanced, I noticed on their rack earth-tones were dominant shades in their collection, "It represents different areas, such as oceans, tundras, green areas". The collection, composed of 16 looks, ranged from a high waisted khaki trouser and hot pants, sexy skirts worn with strapless tops, and silks printed blouses that resembled a mixture of streams of paints. There was also this shimmering lime-green silk tie-neck-bow blouse that looked magnificent on the model. I appreciate the fact that these young ladies, stepped into a territory that some might find troubling, the bravura of showing a wide range of pants, blouses, skirts, etc, is not an easy task. But I was a bit concern on how maturely the collection looked on the runway. It was such an unexpected feeling, since the pieces looked great on the rack, but when I saw them put together on the show, I was unfortunately wholeheartedly underwhelm. Nonetheless, there were some fantastic, well-constructed pieces, such as the unprecedented first look, which was a strapless royal blue gown, which was the first dress they constructed inspired by "mermaids" and the last look which was a simple knee-lenght strapless dress with a silk golden skirt and feather detailing coming up diagonally across the chest. Gorgeous!


"Indie Chic", the collection presented by Latasja Rousey and Kiandra Faulkner looked more appropriate for a day in Cancun, than heading to work at Wall Street, which there is nothing wrong with that. Latasja told me that the collection "tells two stories, worker type and business-wear". I might have misunderstood, but I was leaning more traditional suiting when she mentioned "business-wear". I saw a lot of party clothes which may have reflected the mood that these two young ladies felt when designing the collection. The first looked set the toned. It was a strapless soft-pink fringed top paired with silk white flaring trousers adorned with a tulle bow-tie head piece (the trousers looked so well made, they could have been Michael Kors). The collection felt feminine and fresh, nothing really too complicated. There were jodhpur cropped style pants in pink and silk chocolate brown, silk cheetah printed top and used as belt in a pleated brown day dress. And rich yellow cocktail dresses, one with rosettes adoring the cowl-neckline and the other with black beading at the top. I love the dress Bianca was wearing, which was a tricolored strapless mini which reminded of Neapolitan ice-cream. The clothes had a tropical attitude to them, such is that when I asked Latasja (Kiandra was not present during the interview) on who would be the ultimate girl who would wear her clothes, she responded "Rihanna". What I had no idea of what included on the collection where the "Venom" shirts. They came in black, white and yellow, and featured a glittery spider creeping on the lower back (I want one). 


One of the invited guest designers was Betsey Johnson, not the woman, but her boutique in Georgetown. When Betsey Johnson was being presented, I'm sure lots of people in the crowd thought that the blonde woman standing on stage, who was one of the store reps, was actually her. I wouldn't be surprised if someone came up to me and said "did you see Betsey Johnson?, I love what she was wearing!", not demeaning the level of known-ness Ms. Johnson posses, but I felt like people were not familiar enough with her name nor her clothes. A while back, one of my acquaintances, asked "Who is Betsey Johnson?" while we were passing by one of her boutiques, (ironically, it was the one in Georgetown). He was taking a fashion design class, and hangs out with "fashion" people, I think I vaguely answered his question and I think he sensed my level of madness, so he kept quiet. The collection shown composed a few of the elements Betsey is known for. The perverted playfulness of the layered   tee with ruffles dresses, the quirkiness of a stripy pajama knit transformed into a dress with a drape at the back, and vintage-inspired pieces that came in corseted dresses ad leggings. I also felt there was a recurrent theme from last season, the 19th century can-can cabaret scene-inspired pieces such as the black flared ruched skirt with ruffles at the hem, worn with a dice-printed top and the skimming pink pistol-printed peplum dress with spaghetti stripes. 


The last collection we saw was "Lilly Leu" designed by Alana Leuterio and Lilly Guerra was mainly composed of cocktail dresses. On the day I stopped by the studio, the girls were busy finalizing their collection. They seemed shy towards me, even one of them did not want to be on camera claiming, she wasn't "camera ready" though she looked pretty decent. They told me their collection was "really girly, stuff that we like", they completed each other sentences. They also added, "something you would wear out with your friends". I was thinking "mall", but after I saw the collection I think they met "prom". They told me they wanted to use "happy colors" and that meant, lime-green, turquoise, deep purple and bubble gum pink. It was a rainbow. Their more day looks consisted of a silk flower-printed one-shouldered blouse with a short skirt that had a bizarre cutout on the side, and a bustier top of the same fabric worn with a high waisted turquoise skirt. Some of their evening pieces looked lovely, such as this silk shiny one-shouldered tiered ruffled cocktail dress, a seductive draped deep-purple dress, and pale yellow silk gown. As I mentioned before I was sitting in the front row and I saw EVERYTHING, and when I say EVERYTHING, I mean EVERYTHING. One dress came out in a beautiful red print, and I noticed threads were hanging off the bottom, no bueno. However, I see a lot of potential in these two young ladies, they both told me they wanted to pursue design, and I hope Alana and Lilly would refine their skills at VCU and Marymount respectively. 


When I left the show, the images that were embedded on my head was from Emore'J Couture's collection. The first time I heard about Emore'J I was skeptical at first, but I saw a glimpse of his world through a picture he had in his profile. I clicked on a link to his website, and I was enlightened. I immediately sensed he loves the drama, his pictures depicted a level of avant-garde and abstractness that makes him standout from the mundane. Fashion is often described as a form of self-expression and this young man utilizes that form to completion. Emore'J's creations don't say to me "D.C." but "Paris". I was anxious to what he was going to show at West Potomac, was he going to create a toned-down collection for this crowd? Or was he going to show his last collection tittle "Apparatus 1"? 

Emore'J comes out in true flamboyant form, in an ensemble composed of tailored purple short-shorts, bow tie, and a blazer with his name emblazon on his arm and a glittery full-scale butterfly across his back. He was making his statement. He comes up to the microphone, almost out of breath, but collects himself and talks to the crowd, on his brief intro he mentioned his collection was inspired by a "dark age and time". The first model comes out and the crowd raptures in "Ohhhs", "Awww", laughs and I'm sure a few "wtf's". She looked like she just steeped out of a Spielberg movie, the model was wearing a smeared veil over a tricky hat that resembled a lamp shade and a black corset. The look itself topped anything else we seen before and heralded what was to come from the designer. The color scheme was simple, compact and forward: black, white, grey and touches of gold. The obscures designs included; a black bodysuit with strips of trash bags worn as a skirt, quilted overcoat, an oversize corset like piece made out of what looked like burned aluminum-foil and his show-stopping last dress made out of a combination of layered black fabrics, a ball made out of wire, worn as a headpiece and a silver child-doll in lieu of a handbang. His menswear was just as thrilling, an oversize white jacket worn with skin-tight latex leggings, a flimsy layered cape that opens at the front shown with horse-riding helmet, an armour-like body protecting gear with huge golden cones worn as gloves, and the ultimate test of virility, pantyhose and a leather corset.


Upon reflecting on the essence of the collection, I found similarities with the late Mcqueen, not surprisingly, he's one of the designers he looks up to. Emore'J used unconventional materials for this collection, a trip to Home Depot might have similar finds, managed to transformed those materials into (arguably) wearable art. Alexander Mcqueen's Fall/Winter 2009 had a chic-recyclable-avant-garde vibe that somehow filtered into this collection. Moreover, I commend Emore'J for putting out such great imagery and stand proudly behind his work. A quality every designer should embrace. His sophomore collection titled "Apparatus, The Rapture of Nesir Slegna" would be shown on August 1st, 2010 in Washington D.C. I can only hope I would be swept off my feet once again.

Runway Ready was such a successful event for two reasons. First, it launched a batch of up and coming students with big fashion dreams into stardom and gave them a glimpse into what their careers would be in the future if they followed this path. It gave them a sense of awareness and armed them with abilities needed to tackle the industry. Secondly, because it united folks with the same interest in an affluent area ready to eradicate this infamous facade of bad taste and be known for its affluent and rich fashion. 

All the photos used here are from Walter Grio from shootforchange.com and Phil Kogan.