What A Gala That Was

I couldn't help but radiantly gleam when I received an email from Carlos Reaves (this time, toiling the producer hat) cordially inviting me to The Washington Chiefs Gala Fashion Show. It was a natural reaction. Invitations that pour on my inbox are always well appreciated. According to press notes, Washington Chiefs is a youth service organization that provides support to underprivileged kids in the Washington DC metropolitan area. In their own words, they put kids first. Though it might be obvious that I come off a bit harsh at times, I still have a tender heart. So I made it my obligation to attend. Showing up is not the dilemma here, but what to wear. I was initially planning to wear vintage Cardin, but from matters out of my reach, I was not able to. Needless to say, I had to execute plan B with just a few hours shy of the event. I rushed to Georgetown to pick up a pair of pants, because the ones that are sitting on my closet were not speaking to me at the moment. When I arrived, I realized I shouldn't have worried. 

The "gala" was held in the 2nd floor at the Hilton Hotel in Downtown Silver Spring, Maryland. The art-nouveau deco present all over the walls and columns, and carpeted floors gave the hotel a quaint feel, though the bathrooms' floor, if I might add, were covered in vinyl tiles with sleek detailing on the sink (I don't particularly like pee-wafting-stench type of bathrooms). Once I checked in, a lady with a clipboard unprecedentedly appeared and proceeded to walk photog Matt (who showed up earlier) and I to the reception room. The hallway that connected the reception room to the ballroom where the show would take place, was filled with vendors from assorted types pushed against the wall. The attendees were treated with hors d'oeuvre that included cheese/crackers, and a few celery and fruit options, placed in a long white table at the entrance of the room, right across was a small bar area with an amicable bartender ready to pop bottles. I, of course, stayed away from not-age-permitting beverages and poured myself a glass of punch. As I mentioned to Matt while sitting at one of the many round tables occupying virtually the entire room, this is the way the press should be treated. I'm not asking for a personal assistant, but feeding me (though I wasn't that hungry), and assigning someone as usher was a nice treat. Kudos to Carlos for that. 

In case you didn't know, Washington D.C. or many of its fashion followers have their own way of doing things. In this case, it seemed, the meaning of a "gala" was deprecated a few notches. This was my very first "gala", but I never consoled the idea of wearing a tux. In the back of my mind, something suggested it was not those type of haute events. Regardless, a tux was not in conversation (maybe when I get invited to The Met Gala someday). The perfect scenario would be: I dial Tom Ford's number and he proceeds to invite me to his studio (I would go to Dubai if I have to) to select a look from his fall collection. In the same vein, I would be as equally as content to be outfitted by Domenico Dolce/Stefano Gabbana, Mr. Armani or Stefano Pilati. Now, back to earth. I chose a white shirt vs. a tuxedo shirt from Hilfiger, the pants and coat from Zara, and vintage shoes. Once there, it didn't take long to spot a coterie in jeans or skimpy, short and tight dresses more adequate for a boite around the block. I was speechless. 

This picture, taken while waiting at the foyer to be seated, depicts a mixture of frustration, impatience, and timidness, but I waited patiently. I can't profess enough my perpetual love for this Zara military coat.

Unfortunately, the show started with a sour note. Never mind, the blindingly bright lights (my shades came in handy). The show started with deafening sounds of an anonymous DJ hidden behind a wall of navy blue curtains that divided the runway with the backstage area. Out comes local artist Ki-Mani, I wasn't sure if he was rapping or singing (at one point while I was answering an e-mail, I looked up, and he's suddenly groping a woman on the middle of the stage. Though he attempted to appear as The Adonis, he come off as The Perpetuator. He exited with his pants sagging below his butt. Now you know why people like Lil' Wayne don't get invited to fashion shows) while "models" ostentatiously walked around the rectangular-shaped runway, wearing accoutrements from Coogi (think of it as oversize sherbet-colored tees, shirts, and jumpers with sparkling details. I was confused as to why they thought their line needed to be on the runway? This is coming from someone who has been at their showrooms in New York). The tone was set for the rest of the night. The girls, or young ladies, I should say, looked pretty, but being pretty does not make you a model. I couldn't help but noticed, in some, their exaggerated strut and superfluous hand gestures and long pauses at the end of the runway. I don't know if they were trying to emulate an intoxicated Naomi Campbell or if they nursing a hurting leg, or maybe the lights affected their performance, but it all made sense when the host, who seemed to have difficulty reading her script uttered, "this is urban modeling!!!". "Urban modeling?", I pondered for a second, "Is this a new term in the fashion industry?", "Or was she referring to those models in hip-hop videos who seemed to have forgotten their clothes at home, and thought exposing themselves to goons was sexy?". I don't think baffled is the word here. I looked over at Matt, who was sitting on one end of the runway, with my mouth slightly open in complete disbelief. I signaled him not to take pictures since those shots would most likely won't end up here. It all went downhill from there.

A few looks from Tyrell Collections. Every woman (and drag queen) loves a great evening gown, but I thought Mr. Mr. Tyrell presented scantly clad models in gowns that seemed to be unfinished. Black works, but it would be nice to see him explore other colours. 

One of the few reasons that kept me on my seat was the fact that designers that I've never heard of were going to show their collections at this event. I thought they will take this opportunity to introduce their brand to a new market. As far as first impressions go, it wasn't a particularly good experience. Tyrell Collections (his last name is nowhere to be found) was intriguing, to say the least. The source of inspiration behind this dark collection was most likely Cat Woman stepping out of a strip club. He focused on eveningwear, but the gowns he presented made me wondered what type of event she was going to. Not a red carpet, for sure. Most of his designs included diaphanous chiffon panels, exposing the models legs, breast and at times their underwear, leaving not much to the imagination (I don't know any woman who would go out showing that much skin). He elevated this fetishistic obsession by adding wide leather corsets that seemed to be pulled out of an S&M shop. But why were pink embroidered rosettes cascading down the side in one of his gowns? If he attempted to juxtapose sex with the romance and delicacy of the rosettes, it didn't work. Not because some other designers have done it better in the past, but because the execution and vision were not there. LT Dickens was on the same boat. The problem here was fabrication. It was visible the materials she chose to work with were not on her favor, or maybe they were just the wrong fabrics (bingo!). A shiny taffeta pant suit just looked odd, if not revolting, and a bicolored lace gown was downright sad. If there were any signs of youthfulness was a pantsuit with a perfectly fitted, belted jacket and gathered slim pants. Not only did it looked great on the model, but you could see it work in a variety of sizes (there were other casualties that occurred on the runway, but I'm trying to stay positive). 

Meena Tharmaratnam presented an array of dresses, versatile enough for every woman in attendance. 

Meena Tharmaratnam saved the night. She owns a boutique in Bethesda, Maryland, where she carries an assorted line of womenswear from designers such as Joseph Ribkoff and Samuel Dong. I love her eye for clothes, no wonder she selected some of the best looking pieces of the night, such as a white top with an asymmetrical zipper that looked hip and modern, sexy laser-cut cocktail frocks, a variety of day dresses with exotics motifs, and a gorgeous lilac floor sweeping gown (the best of the night). Another one that stood out was Philissa Williams, the creative mind behind Thembe. It's always delightful to watch her use of draping and far-flund references, but somehow it all came together in vision. One of her best offerings was an open-neck white shift festooned with beautiful soft blue rosettes (from far away they looked like blurred blue splotches, intriguing nonetheless) and a cowl-neck navy top worn with a grey felted wool long skirt. 

I came in with an open mind, and left light-headed. It was not the event that I was expecting. I didn't stay for any type of post show festivities. But I was still inquisitive of the story behind this event. I called Carlos the day later but there was not a response. We finally talk two days later, and he provided me with some insight that I would not discuss through this medium. There were obviously, as Carlos puts it, style differences, or even better, a "tug-a-war". In the midst of the debauchery, something good happened, they raised approximately $20,000. At least the kids would be happy. 

All pictures by Matt Statler

Crystal Couture - The Show

What's not to love about fashion when it's celebrated in its most natural form? A week long celebration of such occurred last week in the heart of Arlington, Virginia. Some of the top designers and retailers in the DC Metropolitan area showcased their distinctive collections for the upcoming season in true fabulous runway presentation at Crystal Couture (for my international readers, this is not couture week in Paris, it's just a word we like to use a lot, probably too much). As I mentioned in a previous post, a special VIP/press preview was held on January 31st, and runway presentations were held from February 1st to February 5th. Crystal Couture was all conjured by Angela Fox, president of Crystal City BID; Mitchell Schear, president of Vornado/Charles E. Smith; and of course, my fabulous fashion mother Maggy Francois (Janice, from the Capitol Fashionista recently interviewed her, read it here), who had the patience, passion and vision to produce such monumental event.

Approximately 28 designers and retailers participated in Crystal Couture festivities. They all came from all parts of the district, representing a different point of view (bridal, menswear, sportswear), but with a common passion for fashion. Having witnessed many of their collections graced the runways throughout D.C., I was familiar with almost all of them, but there were still a few that remained in anonymity. Now, they have come to light. My first major fashion moment was seeing Philippa Hughes from The Pink Line Project in a Balenciaga skirt in the opening night. From a far distant the skirt looked rather familiar, as I approached her the first name that came to mind was Balenciaga. She confirmed my doubt and thanked me for noticing. In case you're curious, it was look 17 from the fall/winter 2010 collection. 

I witnessed a ridiculous amount of clothes throughout the week, by the time the last collection was shown on the last night, I felt overwhelm with the avalanche of clothes. The amount of notes I've taken virtually covered half my black leather Moleskine. But don't take this as bitching, I would never get enough of fashion. I was initially planning to attend two or three nights, but I found myself there almost every night due to the persistent requests from a mix of people showing on different nights at different times. And there is no better feeling knowing people acknowledge your's truly humble opinion. 

One of the first designers I saw was Tashia Senn, trained in one of the most prestigious schools in the country F.I.T. (she later told me she still has mentors there). I was enamored with her strapless canary yellow silk chiffon gown she showed on the press preview, but she later dazzled with a fall line including a white lace jumpsuit, shift dresses in metallic leaves prints, a diaphanous yellow blouse with a beaded skirt and a silver jacquard skirt suit. "The collection was 50's inspired", Tashia told me after her fabulous girls came down the runway. She also confessed it was the glamour of stars such Kathryn Hendrick that inspired the line, evident in some of the shapes seen through the collection. The clothes looked, as she once said, "uber-feminine" and the fabrics looked super luxe. It was an exploration of an era that inspired and still does some of the greatest designers in the world. The collection just screamed Glamour (with capital G). Check her previous collections here. 

photos by Phil Kogan

Etna Cavalcante, one of the few representatives of the Brazilian fashion community here in Washington D.C., showed a collection that spoke of a youthful and lively-spirited voyage to Brazil for Toucan Boutique. The exotic color palette of the clothes were relevant to her heritage. There were sherbet orange, cherry red, sea blue and white. I particularly loved a quaint flower print summer dress in a soft lilac and a cotton tank with a print that resembles spiked rose stems, shown with silver jeggings (see below).

One of the designer that kept coming to mind after I left was Marina Astafyeva. A native from Moscow, Russia, who prefers her clothes to speak for itself. Her line dubbed MarinaAsta was romantic and poetic.  Her shapes were simple, evident in a one-sleeve shift with a hand painted opened tulip on the front. Her standout pieces were gorgeous wool coats exposing the wrist in shades of black, red orange, and white (on Ethiopian model Dazzy Docho). They had a bevy of rosettes appliqués ever so delicately placed around the waist and collar. That alone spoke volumes on her craftsmanship and attention to details. They sure had a vague air to Valentino's romanticism, but as we know they were by Marina (I purposely made the second picture below bigger so you can appreciate the craftsmanship and bask in all its glorious enchantment). Check her clothes on etsy here. 

I met Lara, native of Nigeria, designer of L-Shandi helping a young lady trying a few of her clothes. Her collection was decisively African inspired, celebrating her heritage and the allure of African women. At first glance, the fabrics looked exquisitely opulent, then I later learned they are derived form West Africa. The picture below perhaps embodies the attitude of the collection; modern, fun, loud and proud. There were sensuous strapless pieces in black and white, skirts in jacquard with golden embroidery, and tops in silk cotton with abstract prints. When I was talking to Lara, she exuded a desire to blend the lines of non-conventionalism and wearability, "I want African women to wear my clothes without looking like a costume", she said "blend in, but still stand out". 

Natalia Sanz's collection (see below) for next season was a perfect mixture of what women desire the most: wearability and comfort, without compromising one's figure. The collection was virtually composed of solids in shades of lipstick red on a crew neck top and a simple shift shown on Monday. There were also neutrals such as black and dark grey. What I appreciate from Natalia is the cut of her garments, shown on a pleated shiny skirt and an open neck shift with a black belt. That's perhaps what sets her clothes aside from banality. I also sensed there was a nod to sports entwined in the collection, a front zip jacket with silk straps on the side shown with a grey jersey skirt. 

I think it's also important to note that Natalia was present every night showcasing her current and previous collections. Unbeknown to me, she also had a jewelry line displayed on her table, which I was glad to hear she sold a few pieces. Check her website here. 

On Thursday night, there was a t-shirt competition open to the public. One of my good buddies Oscar Saravia (picture below), who I first met on my junior year of high school, was one of the few contestants. Knowing first hand his abilities as a graphic designer and artist, I was elated when I heard he was going to submit one of his designs. The contest consisted of creating a t-shirt design related to Crystal Couture. The models came out to the runway wearing the designs from each representative designer, it only seemed a matter of seconds that a tee festooned with Christmas lights forming two large crystals was announced as the winner, much to the dismay of many. I later heard the contest was not open to the public for "xyz" reasons, but then the legitimacy of it seemed dubious and biased. I think many would have prefer to have an open contest, where each designer could've at least have an opportunity to explain the concept and thought process behind their work. 

I was inquisitive about his design, so I gave Oscar a chance to express himself, and he proceeded to email me the picture below taken after the contest with his sister and friends wearing his design. "This piece is the first of a series named the monstro' Iconic series. It derived from two different designs I've drawn up and combined into one. I got the dramatic black and white figure from one series and combined it with another that had a a lot of colorful shapes", he states on the email. He adds, "My first inspiration was that Crystal Couture cares about the local fashion scene. I also fed off from the previous times I went to the Crystal Couture shows. My colors came from the luminosity and the feeling I got from being at the shows those nights; various tones of beautiful pinks, purples and blues. What I wanted to capture was the essence of fashion' strength. The globs ascending from her floating hair was to show the intensity of the moment. I wanted to slow things on the runway as a model is in her moment. Slow it down so much that she is frozen in her confidence of self, symbolized by the uni-brown. The crooked smile on her face signifies pride in creativity". Oscar also notes the design was hand drawn by him and digitalized by Nick Fulcher. Not only I was glad to reconnect with Oscar on that night, but I'm even more excited to witness what he has up his sleeves. 

As I mentioned on the previous post, Carlos Reaves was also part of the festivities (his off shoulder concoction was donned by the beautiful former America's Next Top Model contestant Sandra Nyanchoka). Carlos likes to play with proportions and, through his work, reflect his ideas of what the future holds. There was certainly a sense of exploring the new on those orbit-like straps protruding from the models' shoulders, and his use of small reflecting square shaped mirrors adorning, usually, the waist. I've seen the collection on a previous occasion, not implying it was boring. Instead, this time, it shined in a different light due to the almost blindingly reflectors fixed to the ceiling. Even thought there was nothing I haven't seen, he introduced a new piece, a languid one-shoulder shocking pink gown with those aforementioned tiny mirrors festooned to the sleeve (see below). His designs are fun, relatively futuristic and for a woman who is not afraid of the new. DJ Neekola (who was in the house) wore one of his designs (picture below, model on right) to her recent Playtime album release party. 

One of the best edited collections of the week was by Marcella Somuah of Consignment Diva (photos below), who sent out an eclectic collection with the help of Adrian B. Harris. The array of clothes they showed for women was virtually consisting of chic fur coats, one of my favorites was a pelted shrug by BCBG, and I also loved the buffalo plaid asymmetrical coat below, tres chic! 

Their men's presentation seemed like it was inspired by a mad British bloke, a nod to 80's punk and bespoke tailoring. There were plaid cotton pants in different color combinations worn with striped button ups, with either sweater vests or a quaint denim one, all accessorized with prissy bow ties. The anti-establishemnt, subversive aspects were seen in rolled up beat-up denim jeans worn with leg warmers and kilts affixed to suspenders shown in shirtless buffed models. I was enthralled with the juxtaposition of the garments, a bit of formality mashed with something not-so-formal. A way of dress I find attuned to today's youth. I was later surprised when I briefly talked to Adrian and learned this whole thing just came out as a "spur of the moment", given the amount of work put into the presentation. Furthermore, B. Harris also mentioned he wanted to find strength and for him that meant "combining textures, such as camouflage, striped, and leather". He adds, "When you wear a tuxedo you don't want to look like someone else, so adding boots, and leg warmers changes the whole look." Before their presentation Marcella even told me, "Harris is still in the studio working on the last piece" which was a full skirt in camouflage worn with a black top, and a huge bow wrapped around the model's neck. If that's spur of the moment, I wonder what would have came out with advanced preparation. 

Sam Mintah, designer for Ugglee, presented a collection that signaled to 70's Sonia Rykiel. Sam's niche is jersey knits, a fabric most designers stay away from due to the intricacies of maneuvering. That alone is commendable. But then not just making half-ass clothes, but actually producing wearable, fun, and youthful clothes for his counterparts is admirable. Mintah opened up with a few chocolate brown knit jackets with a zipper cutting diagonally on the front, then he smoothy moved into a softer color of mocha seen on a comfy cardigan. There were also women's pieces such as low-cut cardis in baby pink featuring big buttons on the front (a motif present throughout his entire collection), a grey zebra printed sweater dress and a slew of colorful striped concoctions with a rather timid amount of frills diagonally adorning a skirt or adding pouf to a sleeve. I like Sam not only as a designer, but as a person, he's amicable and hard working. He's currently planning his next move, and I can't wait to see what he's going to show us next. 

One of the best designers of the entire week was Kim Truong. I thought her collection had moments of decadence, and on the other side of the spectrum, there were sweet, innocent hints. There were black dresses with variation of lace, a black tight mini skirt worn with a revealing knit top. There was, of course, the dress shown at the preview, the deconstructed lace gown, now shown on a different model. Also, the baby-doll shape dresses in cotton or silk exuded sex appeal without looking vulgar. I was particularly interested in a layered halter dress in seersucker. Who would have thought of creating such a fabulous dress in a fabric more suitable for men?   

photos by Phil Kogan 

On the last night I met Meena Tharmaratnam, president of Ibhana, a boutique catering to women with a sophisticated taste. Meena may not be as young as the other designers, but she sure has a spirit as young as them. She was ubiquitous. One night she showed a batch of silk coats, then on Friday she carefully selected a couple of sensuous silk and crepe red and burgundy dresses (see below). And finally on the last night she showcased gorgeous LBD's. Meena is always thinking of her customer, "She's 20 to 60 years old, and I carry clothes from sizes 2 to 18". That's a considerable target market. One of my favorites was a laser cut short dress with the arms exposed, perfect for a night out. I always think of a little lack dress can take you from the White House to The Park at Fourteenth. It's that transitional. She also told me one of the designers she carries in her boutique, Joseph Ribkoff, constantly dresses Miss America. A suiting fit for a tasteful boutique. 

I would also like to mention Philissa Williams from Thembe (eclectic assorted draped dresses with a nod to the Middle East). The fabulous Carolyn Thomas from The C.A.T Walk boutique, Meagan Kurtz from ADMK (amazing jewelry designer), Tamara Lee from Hush Boutique, Elizabeth St. John (organic wedding gowns) Nate Leon,David Perry and Marques Davis for their relentless work backstage. Last but not least, every single model who worked the runway every night. As Karl Lagerfeld once said, "models give a face to fashion".

At the end of the night, to the beat of DJ Neekola, every model, producers, some retailers and designers (and even me) took over the runway and danced the night away. It was a celebration of a culminating week-long laden with hard work, dedication and most importantly passion. Frankly, I've never had so much fun at a fashion show before. All was missing were a few "innocent" drinks. Finally, the dates are already set for next year, February 7 - February 12 (if they let me host at least one night, rest assured, it's going to be a complete fashion utopia). 

All pictures by Mud Productions. 

Project Fundway

Not too long ago I posted a picture taken after the pre-judging for Project Fundway, a contest open for aspiring high school and college kids in the Washington DC, Virginia and Maryland region who aspire to become fashion designers. I received an email containing the flyer from the producer with the names of the four finalists: Angela Robinson (West Potomac Academy), Kim Truong (VCU), Daniel Herbick (Bethesda Chevy Chase High School), and Agata Miczek (VCU). 

The show would be held at The Warner Theatre (13th and E Street NW, Washington D.C.) on November 4th, host by Kate Michael and Harry Thomas Jr. And red carpet coverage by Kenny Flanagan and Ryan Charchian (I hope I'll get interview *wink wink*). 

I have no idea what the kids are going to show next Thursday (though I been familiar with Kim Truong's work I can't augur what she's going to show for this occasion, but I'm sure it's going to be hot), but I hope to see a promising sparkle of light of a future industry leader. I sure would be there, and I hope to see you all there supporting the fashion youth (if you see me say hi, I don't bite). 

You can purchase your tickets here (http://projectfundway.eventbrite.com). All tickets purchase are tax-deductible and proceeds will benefit DC Fashion Foundation.