In a season where minimalism and subdued maturity have been the most prominent sentiments felt on the runways in Milan, Peter Dundas, the creative director of Emilio Pucci is heralding an emerging trend, exploring an era that has brought some of the most nostalgic, decadent and iconic fashion imagery. Mr. Dundas was imbued by those gypsy-glam-hippie seventies moments that I'm sure brings back lots of memories for those folks that had the privilege to lived it. Besides all the weed/opium smoking, peace signs tees, and dizzy disco nights, there was a moment of glamour that it's still relevant today. And that was the starting building block from this Fall/Winter 2010/11 collection. The show started with Abbey confidently walking out in a long jersey dip-dyed purple jersey gown in Capri, a print that has been part of the house for decades. This pattern was also seen in a long narrow skirt and a long-sleeve short dress. The idea of wearing a fringed scarf (long or short) seems like such a stretch of the mind, but Mr. Dundas managed to make it look flirty and fun, without making the girl look like a joke or even dare to say a hippie-hooker (does that word-phrase really exist?, in case it doesn't, you get the point).
One thing that his customers are going to appreciate from Peter come fall is that this sensual sophistication that is surely practical yet stylish, the look he proposed was this high-waisted pants worn with this delicate almost translucent silk blouse paired with either a cropped leather jacket with bushy fur trims, or a great embellished boleros in black or burgundy (see above). This is just such a great way to dress, playing with proportions that work so well in a woman's body. I know this look does not completely benefit a petite body, but at least it gives these an option of purchasing a well crafted jacket that works for everybody.
What felt somewhat refreshing in this collection is the incorporation of tailoring (another big trend for next season). Something that was missing in previous Dundas collections for Pucci (though this is only his third rtw effort for this house). I love all these men's jackets festooned with brass buttons under these fragile and feminine figures. I know this was not just invented last year, but I love seeing classic tailoring juxtaposed against something more revealing, say, a black lace dress or something less formal, such a baggy t-shirt. But definitely expect this trend to be in major glossy magazine editorials.
I think I talked about attitude and conviction these past collections have evoked, especially in Milan. This nonchalant yet poised strut that his models came out in glorious fashion had something to do with the sexy evening options we saw at Pucci. The look consisted pretty much of fully covered arms and bare legs, just the right amount of leg cleave and enough coverage of the arms, since I guess nobody wants to look like their grandma (no offense) unless she looks like Sophia Loren. Moreover, Pucci showed quite a few of these options, one of them (first on left, see right below) was this purple velvet (another big trend) and black; another one that Mariacarla (second left) was (working the hell out of) in gold and blue sequence, the other two looked much more worked; one had a gold lace panel at the front and the other one (far right) displayed what looks to be shiny black beading with a v-shaped lace panel on the front. I mean can you say HOT!. I believe just the dress itself demands such attention that when a girl who supposedly would be wearing one of these Pucci mini dresses walks in and everybody would just stop doing whatever they were doing, turn and die with envy. They're just show-stoppers.
The sumptuous furs thrown in models' back are just as hot, especially the ones I picked below; the fox coat with white edges and attached embellished belt and the other coat that looks like something taken out of Oscar the Grouch's closet from Sesame Street. After all, Sesame Street characters are in fashion, they were featured in the 2009 September issue of Harper's Bazaar (Oscar the Grouch was shot next to Oscar de la Renta, coincidental?). Regardless, it still looks fierce.
The red-carpet worthy gowns (picture below) seemed so whimsical and lithe. So that when these two came out for some odd reason the picture of Jasmine from Aladdin sort of crossed my mind at some point. Not that I currently watch these type of Disney series, but I guess the billowing sleeves from the look in the right and the flowy appeal from this red one brought me back to the show. I was also delighted seeing how these gowns just glided down the narrow runway, it was such a special moment.
I'm a huge Pucci fan, even more when Peter took over this brand not too long ago and sort of reenergized it for this new generation. I can't wait 'til his next show.
I <3 PETER
Yet again, watch the entire show below.
Yet again, watch the entire show below.