2.28.2010

Versace Likes a Biker Chic

Versace FW 2010/11
The looks are not necessarily in oder of appearance, trend or color-categorized, they sort of summarized the whole collection for me.

I know I'm so backed-up and I'm still trying to catch-up on all these fashion madness that people call fashion week/month. A few season ago, Donatella Versace, the figure image and the creative juices behind this italian brand showed a collection that looked sweetly innocent on the surface but if you took a closer look, it had a deeper message beneath it all; she played with zippers, transforming them into part of dresses or for decorative purposes such as displaying an intricate heart on the front on dresses. For this Fall/Winter 2010/11 season, Donatella envisages a women who adores her motorbike as much as she likes those leather pants -- don't get confused, she's still sexy, feminine and quite dangerous. Albeit this was a departure from last season, there were still quintessential Versace elements such as those vibrant, exotic colours, high-slit uber-sexy cuts, and flowy, sensual gowns we see so often on red carpets. The showed opened up with long coats, worn over shiny mini-skirts, floor-length dresses with zippers undone on one side revealing much leg cleave (love that term), and taut leather jackets and jeans with leather insets. 

There were no baroque prints this season, instead we saw a lot of cut-out shapes and techno fabrics, shown in minis and strapless little numbers. I love all the glitter and glamour but some of the evening short dresses did look a bit too retro for my taste. It just felt somewhat 60's/70's in terms of colour. A bunch of these night pieces do look overly designed and taste-questionable. One of these pieces (see picture right below, first dress from left) bared a long industrial zipper at the front, and a zig-zag inset on the hip area, which I thought were great starting points, but then the transition into modernity gets lost. This mixture of this shiny golden on the bottom and electric blue on the bust area just looks so contrived, almost as if they were not meant to coexist with each other. Besides all this superficial tackiness, I can envision these looks on a clutch of celebrities. I almost had a Lady Gaga moment when this dress right in the middle walked out, it just seems like it will fit her zany personality, let's pray to the fashion Gods she'll don it to one of her events.

I was also confused by all these slits and cut-outs placed so randomly in some of the dresses such as on one side of the neck, covering the shoulder and some with an ovular shape at the waist. The angular play with the clothes seem like an innovative enough idea to give the wearer some heigh and illusion, but there were times that I though the perverted plastic surgeons from Nip&Tuck with naive ideas about fashion hijacked the Versace studio and experimented with the designs. In that regard I thought this collection was a bit disappointing and callow.



The evening wear as a whole was hot, especially those goddess, come-hither gowns with all these embellishment on the chest area, thus making the models sort of look like superheroines. It just seems like if Batman and Wonderwoman had a child, these are the type of gowns she'll be wearing on her series (using your vast imagination, just probably add an eye-mask, gloves and a whip and she'll be set to whoop some butt, in a very glamorous, Versace way). In this case, the deep purple, turquoise-aqua and mustardy-yellow on each gown respectively look super modern and sophisticated that I'll be surprised if I don't see them in upcoming Hollywood events.

This collection has left me intrigued to see what Donatella is going to do for next season, I like this new route she's directing this brand. It's sort of shunning away from obvious tackiness and propelling towards slowly building this relatively new identity for this woman, catering to her demands and necessities, but never loosing the sexiness and sensuality.

Instead of just reading my rambling, you could've watch the whole show below, but since you love me so much you had to do that, I know.



Photos: newyorkmagazine.com

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